Despite the fan-boy level of devotion I tend to accord In-n-Out Burger when I’m out west (in a world where food is often over-processed, prepackaged and frozen, In-n-Out continues to make everything the old-fashioned way: by hand) it was only recently that I discovered the chain has a secret menu coveted by those in the know. Suddenly there’s a whole new grail: mustard-grilled 4×4’s, grilled cheese, lettuce-wrapped patties, and – sweet, holy jesus – french fries, “animal-style.” Enveloped in cheese, smothered in fried onions, the piece de resistance is a healthy dousing of thousand island dressing. Greasy, creamy, crunchy, salty, it won’t do the waistline any favors – but oh, hosanna, it tastes so good on the way down.
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