Ramps, the surest signs of spring’s reluctant arrival, finally made their debut this weekend at the Union Square Greenmarket. I’ll leave it to others to wax rhapsodic on the all too brief appearance of these tender wild leeks which herald the start of the growing season in the Northeast. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a fan; but the advent of ramps has a deeper, much more spiritual meaning to me: fiddleheads aren’t far behind.