Fresh food – the fresher the better – is a basic tenet of Chinese cooking. For the majority of people that entails a daily visit to the wet market; so-called because much of the product is still wet, as it were: the produce is fresh out of the ground, the seafood is still alive. Graham Street on Hong Kong island is home to one of the oldest local wet markets – an assembly of small individual stalls selling most anything the daily cook might need. My timing turns out to be fortuitous, too. Â In an act of urban renewal the entire area will soon be razed.